What Makes a Master Barber Different? Paul Montera Explains

In New Jersey, a Master Barber license requires a minimum of 1,500 hours of training, a passing score on both written and practical state board exams, and demonstrated proficiency in everything from scissor technique to straight razor safety. But Paul Montera will tell you the license is just the starting point.

The Training That Matters

Paul learned barbering in the shop — watching his father and grandfather work at Hairlines Barbershop on Route 31 in Flemington, NJ — rather than in a classroom. He then spent years cutting hair in New York City, where the margin for error is zero and the volume is relentless.

"In New York, you develop your hands fast or you don't last," Paul says. "The clients don't come back if the cut isn't right. That pressure is what makes you good."

When he returned to Flemington to take over the family shop — a tradition that began in the 1930s — Paul brought that New York discipline with him. This spring, as Hunterdon County comes alive, many clients are choosing fresher, cleaner tapers to match the warmer weather.

Scissor-Over-Comb: The Lost Art

Walk into most barbershops in Hunterdon County and you'll see clippers. Clippers are fast. Clippers are consistent enough for high-volume work. But they're not scissors.

Scissor-over-comb technique — where the barber uses a comb to lift the hair and cuts over it with scissors — produces a fundamentally different result:

• Natural texture is preserved rather than blunted
• Gradients are smoother — the hair flows instead of abruptly ending
• It grows out better — a scissor cut still looks intentional three weeks later

Paul uses scissor-over-comb for all tapers, all blending, and all classic cuts. Most barbers trained after 2000 were never taught the technique properly.

The Straight Razor Shave

The straight razor shave is the definitive test of a barber's hands. A dull blade, a wrong angle, or too much pressure produces razor burn at best and cuts at worst. Paul has been doing it for over 40 years.

His process: hot towel to open the pores, pre-shave oil, hot lather (not canned foam), first pass with the grain, second pass across the grain, cold towel to close. Ten to fifteen minutes. When it's done, it's as close as a face can get.

"A lot of guys who think they have sensitive skin have actually just had bad shaves," Paul says. "A proper technique doesn't irritate. It soothes."

What the Consultation Reveals

Before Paul picks up scissors on a new client, he asks a few specific questions:

• How often do you come in for a haircut? (Every 3 weeks vs. every 8 weeks changes the cut completely)
• How do you style it at home? (Air dry vs. product vs. blow dry changes the shape needed)
• What do you hate about your current cut? (This is usually the most useful answer)

The answers shape everything about what he does. A master barber isn't just executing a style — he's designing a cut that works for your specific head, hair type, and lifestyle.

Why the Price Difference Is Deceptive

Hairlines charges $30 for a men's haircut. Salon chains in Somerville or Bridgewater charge $50–80 for the same service — and often with a 20-minute time limit and an apprentice on rotation.

A $30 haircut from Paul that holds its shape for 4–5 weeks is cheaper than a $55 salon cut that falls apart in 2 weeks. Over the course of a year, clients who understand this choose the master barber.

Visit Paul at Hairlines

Hairlines Barbershop
170 NJ-31, Suite 4 · Flemington, NJ 08822
(908) 751-5187

Hours:
Tuesday: 7:00 AM – 6:00 PM
Wednesday–Friday: 7:00 AM – 6:00 PM
Saturday: 6:00 AM – 2:00 PM

Walk-ins always welcome. Book online at Vagaro. With spring festivals and outdoor events in Flemington, now's a great time to refresh your look. Call or book now to secure your appointment with Paul — slots fill up quickly and you’ll notice the difference a master barber makes.

Serving Flemington, Raritan, Clinton, Somerville, Bridgewater, Lambertville, and all of Hunterdon County.